Commissioning an RV or camper for spring

RV & camper 9 min read

Water heater drain plug reinstall, antifreeze flush and tank sanitization, propane leak test before lighting anything, appliance startup, washer and dryer reconnect, outdoor kitchen check, battery reconnect and circuit test, slide-out extension and seal inspection, generator load test, post-winter roof sealant check, tire pressure and condition, and pre-departure walk-around.

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Water system startup and flush

Flushing the antifreeze out completely is the top priority before any other systems are activated. Propylene glycol (the pink RV antifreeze) is non-toxic, but it imparts a distinct sweet taste to water if not fully cleared from the lines and tank.

Reinstall the water heater drain plug: This is the single most commonly forgotten spring startup step. Locate the plug from where you stored it, if you followed the winterization guide, it's taped to the access door frame. Install it before introducing any water to the system. Filling the water heater with the plug out will flood the compartment.
Close the bypass valves: Return the winterization bypass valves to their normal operating position (the water heater is back in the circuit). If you labeled the valves at winterization, this is straightforward. If not, consult the owner's manual to confirm the correct position for normal operation.
Reconnect the pump and fill the tank: Reconnect the fresh water pump inlet hose to the fresh water tank. Fill the tank with fresh water. Turn on the pump and open each fixture, starting farthest from the pump, and run until the water runs completely clear and colorless. Flush the toilet multiple times. Run the outdoor shower if fitted. Taste the water at the last fixture, any remaining sweetness means more flushing is needed.
Sanitize the fresh water tank: Every spring, sanitize the tank before it is used for drinking. The tank has sat stagnant all winter and biological growth begins even in a closed system. Drain the tank fully, then fill with a solution of 1/4 cup of unscented household bleach per 15 gallons of tank capacity (follow your RV manual). Run the bleach solution through every line until you can smell bleach at each fixture. Let the system sit for 4-12 hours. Drain fully and flush with fresh water until the bleach odor is completely gone.
Water heater startup: Before activating the water heater element or gas burner, fill the tank completely, run a hot water tap until water flows steadily, which confirms the tank is full. Activating a heating element or gas burner in a dry tank burns out the element immediately. Once filled, activate the heater and allow it to fully heat before testing.

Water heater drain plug: Reinstall this first, before any water enters the system. Taped to the access door frame if winterized correctly. Filling with the plug out floods the compartment.
Bypass valves: Return to normal operating position (water heater back in circuit). Consult owner's manual if valves were not labeled at winterization.
Flush antifreeze: Reconnect pump inlet hose to fresh water tank. Fill and run each fixture farthest-first until completely clear and colorless. Flush toilet multiple times. Taste at last fixture; any sweetness means more flushing is needed.
Sanitize tank: 1/4 cup unscented household bleach per 15 gal tank capacity. Run through all lines until bleach smell at every fixture. Sit 4 to 12 hours. Drain fully, flush until bleach odor is completely gone.
Water heater startup: Fill tank first. Run a hot tap until water flows steady before activating the element or burner. Dry element = immediate burnout.

Propane and safety systems

Leak test before opening the valve: Before opening the propane tank valve, perform a soap-bubble test at every accessible fitting and connection, the tank valve itself, the regulator connections, the bulkhead fitting entering the coach, and any line connections visible in the tank compartment. Apply soapy water with a brush or spray bottle and watch for bubbling over 30 seconds. A slow leak after sitting all winter is more common than people expect, pressure cycling and temperature changes can work fittings loose.
Open the tank valve slowly: Open the valve a quarter-turn and wait 60 seconds. Test again with soapy water. If clear, open fully. If bubbling appears at any point, close the valve immediately and locate the leak before proceeding.
Relight appliances in order: Water heater first (run a brief hot water cycle to confirm it lights and heats), then the furnace (run a brief heat cycle at a moderate temperature setting, confirm ignition and warm air delivery before temperatures drop overnight and you actually need it), then the refrigerator in propane mode. Ignitors may take several attempts to light after extended shutdown, this is normal. A burner that won't light after multiple attempts needs investigation before use.
Outdoor grill reconnect: Reconnect the quick-connect fitting at the exterior propane port. Leak-test the connection with soapy water before igniting. Inspect the grill burners for spider webs and wasp nests, these are extremely common after winter storage and cause localized burner fires when the grill is first lit. Run the grill on high for 10 minutes before cooking to burn off any debris.
Smoke, CO, and LP gas detectors: Test every detector. Press the test button on each and confirm it responds. The CO detector and LP gas detector (mounted low near the floor in most RVs) are especially important at spring startup, a slow propane leak that developed over winter in a closed coach can reach dangerous concentrations quickly when the RV is sealed up for travel. Replace any detector that doesn't respond or is past its service life (CO alarms every 5 years or by the manufacturer's date; follow the label for LP detectors).

Leak test before opening: Soap-bubble test at every accessible fitting and connection: tank valve, regulator connections, bulkhead fitting, all line connections in tank compartment. Watch 30 seconds for bubbling.
Open valve slowly: Quarter-turn, wait 60 seconds, retest. If clear, open fully. Any bubbling = close immediately, locate and repair before proceeding.
Relight in order: Water heater, then furnace, then refrigerator. Multiple ignitor attempts are normal after extended shutdown. A burner that won't light after several attempts needs investigation before use.
Outdoor grill: Reconnect quick-connect at exterior port, leak-test connection. Inspect burners for spider webs and wasp nests before igniting. Run on high 10 minutes before cooking to burn off debris.
Detectors: Test CO, smoke, and LP gas detectors. Replace any past service life (CO alarms every 5 years or by the manufacturer's date; follow the label for LP detectors). LP detector mounted low near floor, critical at spring startup.

Washer, dryer, and outdoor kitchen

Washer:

Reconnect both supply lines (hot and cold) at the machine. Hand-tighten plus a quarter-turn, over-tightening cracks plastic inlet valve bodies.
Run a short rinse cycle with no detergent to flush any remaining antifreeze from the drum, pump, and lines. Check the water running out of the drain, when it runs clear with no pink tint, the machine is flushed.
Run a self-clean cycle before the first laundry load to remove any biological growth that developed in the drum over the winter storage period. Leave the door or lid ajar between uses going forward.

Dryer:

Vented dryers: confirm the winter cover or screen from the exterior vent termination has been removed. A blocked vent on a running dryer is a fire hazard. Run a brief no-heat tumble cycle and confirm air flow from the exterior termination.
Condensing/ventless dryers: check that the condensate tank is empty from any winterization draining. Clean the heat exchanger filter before the first cycle, this filter tends to accumulate lint and debris during use and should be cleared at the start of every season.

Outdoor kitchen:

Outdoor sink: Run both taps until any residual antifreeze from the fall flush is fully cleared. Check the supply connections for drips.
Outdoor refrigerator: Remove the winter cover. Close the door and allow the unit to run 4-6 hours before loading food. Reconnect the ice maker supply line and run 1-2 batches of ice, discard them, as the first batches may contain antifreeze residue from the line winterization.
Countertop and surfaces: Remove all covers and inspect the countertop for any winter cracking or lifting at seams. Clean and re-apply stone sealer or countertop protectant if applicable.

Washer: Reconnect supply lines (hand-tight plus quarter-turn; over-tightening cracks plastic inlet valve bodies). Run rinse cycle until drain runs clear with no pink tint. Self-clean cycle before first laundry load.
Dryer (vented): Confirm winter vent cover is removed before running. Test airflow from exterior termination; a blocked vent on a running dryer is a fire hazard.
Dryer (condensing): Confirm condensate tank is empty. Clean heat exchanger filter before first cycle.
Outdoor sink: Run both taps until antifreeze is fully cleared. Check supply connections for drips.
Outdoor fridge/ice maker: Remove winter cover, run 4 to 6 hours before loading food. Reconnect ice maker supply line, run 1 to 2 ice batches and discard (antifreeze residue). Remove winter cover from unit and reconnect.

Battery, electrical, and slide-outs

Reconnect batteries: Connect positive first, negative second. If the batteries were on a smart maintainer all winter, they should be at full charge. If they were disconnected and stored cold, bring them to full charge before running heavy loads, a deeply discharged lead-acid battery stressed by a heavy immediate load may not recover to full capacity.
Test all circuits: Turn on each breaker individually and test the primary loads, interior lighting, 12V outlets, 120V outlets, water pump, and the air conditioner (run a brief cooling cycle to confirm the compressor starts and cools). A circuit that trips repeatedly has either a failing component on that branch or a wiring issue that needs diagnosis.
Slide-outs: Extend slides slowly on the first extension after winter, listen for grinding or resistance. Lubricate the slide mechanism before full extension per the manufacturer specification (most use a dry silicone or white lithium grease, not petroleum-based grease). After full extension, inspect the slide seals all the way around: winter storage compresses the outer seals against the coach wall, and cracks or flat spots in the seal rubber cause water intrusion at the top of the slide. Address any seal damage before the first rain.
Generator: If fitted, run a 30-minute loaded test before relying on it. Change the oil if not done in the past 12 months or 100 hours. Test under actual AC load, running lights is not a meaningful generator stress test. The generator should run the air conditioner without stumbling or tripping the generator breaker.
Inverter: Power on the inverter and confirm 120V output at the inverter-supplied outlets. Run a brief load test (a small appliance) to confirm clean power output. Check the inverter remote display for any fault codes stored from the previous season.

Reconnect batteries: Positive first, negative second. Fully charge before running heavy loads if stored disconnected; a deeply discharged lead-acid battery stressed immediately may not recover to full capacity.
Test circuits: Each breaker individually. Test: interior lighting, 12V/120V outlets, water pump, AC compressor start and cooling cycle. Repeated tripping = failing component or wiring issue needing diagnosis.
Slide-outs: Extend slowly, listen for grinding. Lubricate mechanism before full extension per manufacturer spec. Inspect seals all the way around after full extension; winter compression causes cracks and flat spots. Address any seal damage before rain.
Generator: 30-minute loaded test before relying on it. Oil change if over 12 months or 100 hours. Test under actual AC load; running lights is not a meaningful stress test.
Inverter: Power on, confirm 120V output at inverter-supplied outlets. Brief load test (small appliance). Check remote display for fault codes from previous season.

Exterior, roof, and tires

Post-winter roof inspection: Walk the roof and inspect all sealant points after winter, temperature cycling over several months opens cracks in sealant that appeared adequate in fall. Check every penetration, vent base, air conditioner mount, antenna, and the perimeter seam. Any new gap or crack should be cleaned and resealed before rain arrives. This inspection takes 20 minutes and can prevent thousands of dollars in water intrusion damage.
Tire pressure and condition: Inflate to the pressure specified on the door-frame placard, this is the correct pressure for your vehicle and load, not the maximum stamped on the tire sidewall. Inspect sidewalls for flat spots, cracking, and crazing. Tires that developed flat spots from stationary storage typically round out after 20-30 miles at highway speed, if vibration persists beyond that, the tire is likely damaged and should be replaced. Check the age, some vehicle and tire makers recommend replacing tires six to 10 years old regardless of tread (NHTSA); follow your tire maker's limit; the rubber compounds degrade with age even on low-use RVs.
Landing gear and leveling jacks: Extend and retract all jacks to confirm smooth operation. The silicone spray or Fluid Film applied at winterization should still be effective, reapply if the shafts show any surface rust or roughness. Confirm all jacks retract fully before moving the vehicle.
Exterior wash and inspection: Wash the full exterior before the season. During the wash, inspect the sidewall around all windows, doors, and slide-outs for soft or bubbled areas that indicate water intrusion. Press on any suspect area, soft or spongy panels indicate the interior structure has absorbed moisture. These need professional attention before they progress to full delamination.
Hitch and towing equipment (towable RVs): Inspect the coupler, ball, and safety chains. Confirm the ball size matches the coupler rating. Connect the trailer wiring harness and test all trailer lighting before the first trip, brake lights, turn signals, and running lights. Test the brake controller function if your tow vehicle has electric trailer brakes.

Roof: Walk and inspect all sealant after winter; temperature cycling opens cracks that appeared adequate in fall. Every penetration, vent base, AC mount, antenna, perimeter seam. Any new gap = clean and reseal before rain. 20 minutes, prevents thousands in water damage.
Tires: Inflate to door-frame placard pressure (not max sidewall). Check for flat spots; round out after 20 to 30 miles at highway speed or replace. Some vehicle and tire makers recommend replacing tires six to 10 years old regardless of tread (NHTSA); follow your tire maker's limit.
Jacks: Extend and retract all to confirm smooth operation. Reapply silicone spray or Fluid Film if any surface rust. Confirm all retract fully before moving.
Exterior wash: During wash, press around all windows, doors, and slide-outs. Soft or spongy panels = moisture in the structure, needs professional attention before progressing to full delamination.
Hitch and towing (towable): Inspect coupler, ball, safety chains, confirm ball size matches coupler rating. Test all trailer lighting. Test brake controller if electric trailer brakes fitted.

Pre-departure and first trip check

Full walk-around: Before departure, walk the complete perimeter. Confirm: all storage compartment doors latched, slide-outs fully retracted, awning retracted and secured, jacks up and stowed, all exterior utilities (water hose, shore power cord, sewer hose) disconnected and stowed, and antenna lowered if applicable.
Interior walk-through: Confirm all cabinets latched (especially overhead), refrigerator door secured for travel, all loose items stowed, and the TV or any mounted electronics secured. A loose item in an RV at highway speeds becomes a projectile in any sudden stop.
Safety equipment: Fire extinguisher gauge checked. Smoke, CO, and LP gas detectors tested and functioning. First aid kit stocked. Emergency roadside kit (triangles or flares, jumper cables or battery booster) accessible.
Registration and insurance: Confirm both the RV registration and the tow vehicle registration are current. Confirm RV insurance is active and coverage limits are appropriate. For motorhomes, verify the vehicle inspection sticker is current if your jurisdiction requires annual inspection.
Short pre-season test drive: Drive 10-15 miles before the first full-length trip. Listen for any new sounds, rattles in the chassis, squeaks from the slide-out seals, or changes in how the rig handles. Stop and do a brief walk-around afterward. Address anything new before a long highway trip, a rattle that's minor at 25 mph is sometimes a loose component that becomes a failure at 65 mph.

Walk-around: All compartment doors latched, slides retracted, awning retracted and secured, jacks up and stowed, all utilities disconnected and stowed (water hose, shore power cord, sewer hose), antenna lowered if applicable.
Interior: All cabinets latched (especially overhead). Fridge secured for travel. Loose items stowed. TV and mounted electronics secured. A loose item at highway speed becomes a projectile in any sudden stop.
Safety gear: Fire extinguisher gauge in green. CO/smoke/LP detectors tested. First aid kit stocked. Roadside emergency kit (triangles, jumper cables or battery booster) accessible.
Registration and insurance: Both current. Motorhome inspection sticker current if jurisdiction requires it.
Pre-season test drive: 10 to 15 miles before the first full-length trip. Listen for new sounds. Walk-around afterward. Address anything new before a long highway trip; a minor rattle at 25 mph can be a loose component that fails at 65 mph.

Official resources and regulations

Regulatory sources for RV commissioning: LP gas and CO safety, potable water systems, and registration requirements. Always verify registration and inspection requirements with your state DMV; requirements vary significantly for motorhomes versus towed units.

RVIA (RV Industry Association)

RVIA certification, safety bulletins, recall notices, and the RVIA inspection standard used as the baseline for RV systems verification

NFPA 58: Liquefied Petroleum Gas Code

LP gas system standards: hose and fitting inspection intervals, leak test procedures, cylinder requalification dates, and regulator replacement requirements

CPSC: Carbon Monoxide Safety

CO alarm placement requirements, detector replacement guidance, and generator use restrictions; CO kills more people in RVs and campers than any other fuel-burning hazard

EPA: Drinking Water

Potable water system sanitation standards; guidance on flushing and disinfecting water storage tanks after periods of inactivity

AAMVA: State DMV Locator

State-by-state registration, inspection, and licensing requirements for motorhomes and towed RVs; renewal timelines and inspection sticker requirements vary by state

RVIA (rvia.org): Model-specific commissioning guidance, recall notices, RVIA certification standards.
NFPA 58 (nfpa.org): LP gas system standards; regulator requirements, hose standards, cylinder handling.
CPSC CO Safety (cpsc.gov): CO detector placement, generator exhaust risk. Relevant to spring startup sequence in a sealed coach.
EPA Drinking Water (epa.gov): Potable water sanitation standards for fresh water tank flush and sanitization at commissioning.
FMCSA (fmcsa.dot.gov): Applies to motorhomes over 10,001 lbs GVWR; registration, inspection, and driver requirements by weight class.

These articles are provided for general informational purposes only and do not constitute professional, legal, safety, or emergency advice. Content reflects conditions at the time of publication and may be out of date, laws, regulations, facility rules, and equipment standards change. Always verify requirements with the governing authority for your jurisdiction, vessel class, and specific situation. goFrigg makes no representations about the completeness or accuracy of this content and is not responsible for outcomes resulting from actions taken based on these articles. In an emergency, contact emergency services immediately, do not rely solely on this content. Trailering, boating, and storage carry inherent risks. Consult qualified professionals before acting. See our Privacy & Terms for full disclaimers.

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