Just got a boat: your first week

Boats 8 min read

Registration requirements, required safety gear, the pre-launch checklist that matters most, basic right-of-way rules, float plan basics, and what to do when the engine won't start. Organized by experience level, detailed explanations for new boaters, compact checklists for everyone else.

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The steps

Registration and documentation

State registration vs federal documentation: Most recreational boats under 26 feet use state registration, you receive a certificate and two numbers (e.g., FL 1234 AB) that must be mounted on each side of the forward half of the boat, in plain block letters at least 3 inches high in a color that contrasts with the hull (33 CFR 173.27). Federally documented boats (boats that meet the federal size requirement, which is measured in net tonnage, or boats used commercially) use a USCG documentation number instead. Check your state boating agency's requirements; most states require registration within 30 to 60 days of purchase.
Hull Identification Number (HIN): The HIN is a 12-character identifier permanently affixed to the starboard side of the transom, near the top. It works like a VIN, write it down and keep it somewhere other than the boat. If the boat is stolen, this is what law enforcement uses to identify it.
Title: Most states title recreational vessels. Keep the original title in a waterproof folder at home, not aboard. Carry a printed copy of your registration certificate on the boat at all times, you can be asked to produce it at any time by law enforcement or the Coast Guard.
Registration number placement rules: Letters and numbers must be separated by a hyphen or space, in a color that contrasts with the hull, using block or gothic style only. They must be on the forward half of the vessel. Decorative fonts or script do not meet the legal standard.
Lien check: If you bought the boat used and financed it, confirm the lender's lien is recorded with your state. If you bought from a private seller, get a lien release in writing before handing over payment, undisclosed liens transfer with the title.

Register with your state within the required window (varies, typically 30 to 60 days)
Mount registration numbers: each side of the forward half, 3 in. minimum, plain block font, contrasting color
Carry printed registration certificate aboard at all times
Record HIN separately from the boat (transom, starboard side, near top)
Title kept at home, copy aboard; lien release from seller if purchased used
Check state-specific decal placement requirements, many require a validation sticker adjacent to numbers

Required safety equipment

Personal flotation devices (PFDs): Federal law requires one USCG-approved, wearable PFD per person on board. On boats 16 feet and over, you also need one Type IV throwable device (ring buoy or seat cushion). PFDs must be the correct size for the person wearing them, must be accessible (not buried in a locker), and must be in serviceable condition, faded, torn, or waterlogged PFDs do not count. Children under 13 must wear their PFD while underway on most state waters.
Fire extinguisher: Required on boats with enclosed compartments, fuel tanks, or enclosed living spaces. Most recreational powerboats need at least one B-I marine fire extinguisher (5-lb dry chemical or equivalent). Boats 26 to 40 feet need two. Check the gauge monthly, if the needle is in the red, replace it. Extinguishers expire; check the manufacturer's date on the label.
Sound-producing device: Boats 12 meters (39.4 ft) and longer must carry a whistle; smaller boats need some other efficient sound signal (33 CFR 83.33). On boats under 12 meters, a simple athletic whistle is the usual choice. Keep it attached to your PFD, not loose in a bag.
Visual distress signals: Required on coastal waters and the Great Lakes for boats 16 feet and over. Three night signals (flares) plus three day signals, or a combination device that covers both. Check expiration dates, most flares expire 42 months from manufacture. An electronic distress light satisfies the night requirement indefinitely.
Navigation lights: Required when operating between sunset and sunrise, or in restricted visibility. A bow light (red/green combination or separate sidelights) and a white stern light are the minimum. Test all lights before your first night run, a dead nav light makes you invisible to other vessels and is a citable offense.
Backfire flame arrestor: Required on gasoline-powered inboard/stern drive engines, the circular screen device on the carburetor air intake. Do not remove it. It prevents backfires from igniting fuel vapors in the bilge.

One wearable USCG-approved PFD per person, correct size, accessible and serviceable
One Type IV throwable on boats 16 ft and over
B-I fire extinguisher minimum (two if 26 to 40 ft); check gauge monthly, check expiry date
Sound device: whistle on boats 12 m and up, an efficient sound signal on smaller boats; clip whistle to PFD
Visual distress signals (coastal/Great Lakes, boats 16 ft+): 3 day + 3 night; check flare expiry dates (42 months)
Nav lights tested before any sunset or low-visibility operation
Flame arrestor in place on gas inboard/I-O engines, do not remove

Pre-launch inspection checklist

Drain plug, do this last, at the water's edge: The most common way new boaters sink their boat is launching with the drain plug out. The plug is in the transom near the bottom of the hull. Thread it in and give it a quarter-turn to lock before the boat enters the water. Do this every single time, even if you just relaunched an hour ago.
Engine kill switch (safety lanyard): Clip the engine kill switch lanyard to your belt loop or life jacket before you start the engine. If you fall overboard, the lanyard pulls free and cuts the engine. On boats manufactured after 2020, automatic cut-off systems are federally required. Clip it in regardless, it takes two seconds and has saved lives.
Fuel level and primer bulb: Check the fuel gauge before departure, not at the dock after launch. For outboards with a portable tank and primer bulb: squeeze the bulb until it feels firm, this pressurizes the fuel line and makes starting easier. A soft bulb that stays soft may indicate a cracked hose or loose fitting.
Battery: Turn the battery switch to the correct position before starting (usually "1," "2," or "Both", consult your manual). A dead battery is the number one reason boats don't start at the ramp. Run the blower for 4 minutes before starting any gasoline engine in an enclosed bilge to clear fuel vapors.
Bilge pump test: Activate the automatic bilge pump manually to confirm it works before launch. The automatic float switch can fail silently, if your bilge is filling and the pump doesn't run, you won't know until there's a problem.
Tie-downs and trailer: Remove all trailer tie-down straps before launching, leaving a bow strap attached is more common than it sounds. Walk the trailer: check the winch strap, bow stop, and that nothing is wrapped around the prop. Remove safety chains after backing down but before the trailer submerges.

Drain plug: install at water's edge, every time, before the stern submerges
Kill switch lanyard clipped to belt/PFD before engine start
Fuel level verified before trailer launch; outboard primer bulb firm
Battery switch to correct position; blower run 4+ min before gas engine start in enclosed bilge
Bilge pump: manual test before launch
All bow/stern tie-down straps removed from trailer before boat enters water
Prop clear; safety chains disconnected after backing; bow line held during launch

Rules of the road and no-wake zones

The hierarchy of right-of-way: Power gives way to sail, sail gives way to human-powered vessels, and larger commercial vessels (constrained by their draft) have priority in channels. Between two powerboats meeting head-on, both turn to starboard. Between two powerboats crossing, the vessel to your starboard is the stand-on vessel (you have the right of way if you are on the other's starboard side). Vessel overtaking from behind must keep clear. When in doubt, slow down.
Channel markers and buoys (IALA-B system, US waters): "Red, right, returning", red buoys are on your right when returning from sea (heading upstream or toward port). Green buoys are on your right when heading out. Red buoys have even numbers; green buoys have odd numbers. Numbers increase going toward port. Staying between the channel markers keeps you in the deepest, safest water.
No-wake zones: A "no-wake" or "idle speed" zone requires your boat to move at the minimum speed needed to maintain steerage, roughly walking pace. Even a small wake at this speed can damage docked boats and disturb swimming areas. Slow down well before entering the marked zone so your wake subsides before you arrive. Violating a no-wake zone is a citable offense and, more importantly, a liability if your wake damages another boat.
Safe speed and lookout: The COLREGS (international rules) and most state boating laws require you to maintain a "safe speed" at all times, defined as a speed that allows you to take proper action to avoid collision given the conditions, visibility, traffic density, and maneuverability of your vessel. Always maintain a proper lookout using both sight and hearing.

Power gives way to sail; both power boats meeting head-on: both turn starboard
Crossing: vessel on your starboard is stand-on; you are give-way
Overtaking vessel always keeps clear
Red right returning (IALA-B); even numbers on reds, odd on greens, increasing toward port
No-wake zone: minimum steerage speed, slow down before entering so wake subsides
Maintain proper lookout (sight + hearing) and safe speed for conditions at all times
Rules vary by water type: state lakes, Army Corps reservoirs, Great Lakes, NPS waters, and coastal waters each have different governing agencies and rule sets. See the Waterway Rules and Jurisdiction guide for the full picture.

Float plan basics

What a float plan is: A float plan is a document you leave with a responsible person ashore that tells them where you're going, when you expect to return, and what to do if you don't come back on time. The Coast Guard does not take float plans, but they will use one your contact person provides if they need to initiate a search. It is the single most effective action you can take to shorten a rescue response if something goes wrong.
What to include: Vessel name, registration number, hull color, and any distinguishing features. Your name and contact information. Number of people on board and their names. Departure point, planned route, destination, and any known stops. Departure time and expected return time. Emergency equipment on board (flares, EPIRB, VHF radio). Vehicle and trailer make, model, and license plate left at the ramp.
Who to leave it with: A reliable person you trust to act if you're overdue, not someone who will forget to check. Give them a clear trigger time: "If I haven't called you by 7 PM, call the Coast Guard." Make sure they have the number for the nearest Coast Guard sector (search for "Coast Guard District [your state]" for the correct local number).
Cancel your float plan: When you return, immediately contact your float plan holder and tell them you're back. A float plan that isn't cancelled will result in a search and rescue operation, which is expensive, uses resources needed elsewhere, and will embarrass you.

Vessel: name, reg number, color, distinguishing features
Persons: names and count aboard
Trip: departure point, planned route, destination, stops
Times: departure and expected return
Safety gear aboard: flares, EPIRB, VHF channel monitored
Vehicle/trailer at ramp: make, model, plate
Trigger: clear time threshold for contact to call Coast Guard
Cancel the plan immediately on return, a live float plan launches a SAR operation

Engine won't start, systematic troubleshooting

Kill switch lanyard first: Before anything else, check that the engine kill switch lanyard is fully seated in the switch. This is the most common reason an engine suddenly won't start, the lanyard was dislodged by movement aboard. If the lanyard is missing, the engine simply will not start.
Gear selector in neutral: Most marine engines have a neutral safety switch that prevents starting while in gear. Move the gear selector to neutral and try again. This is the second most common ramp-side problem.
Fuel system check: Confirm the fuel valve is open (if present). Squeeze the primer bulb (outboard) until firm, a soft bulb that won't firm up indicates a fuel delivery problem. Check that you actually have fuel; fuel gauges on boats are notoriously inaccurate. Switch tanks if a second tank is available.
Battery: Turn the key to the "on" position and check that your gauges come to life. If nothing lights up, the issue is electrical, check the battery switch position, then check the main fuse or circuit breaker. Corroded battery terminals are a common silent failure; a firm green light on the battery switch doesn't guarantee a good connection.
Over-primed (flooded) engine: If you've cranked the engine repeatedly with the throttle advanced, you may have flooded it. For many gas engines: advance throttle to wide-open position (this activates a "clear flood" mode on many fuel-injected engines), crank for 5 to 7 seconds, release. Then return to idle and try a normal start. Do not keep cranking the same way hoping for a different result.
When to stop and call for help: If you hear unusual sounds (grinding, knocking), smell fuel strongly from the engine compartment, or see smoke, stop. Do not continue cranking. Run the bilge blower, wait 10 minutes, then reassess. If the engine compartment smells like fuel, you have a fuel system problem that should be diagnosed by a marine technician before the engine is run again.

Kill switch lanyard fully seated? (most common cause)
Gear selector in neutral? (neutral safety switch)
Fuel valve open? Primer bulb firm? Fuel in tank? Tank switched?
Battery switch position correct? Gauges power up on key-on?
Flooded: throttle to WOT, crank 5 to 7 sec, return to idle and retry
Fuel smell in bilge: stop cranking, run blower 10 min, do not restart, have it inspected
Check engine light illuminated: note any codes before clearing; do not ignore and run

These articles are provided for general informational purposes only and do not constitute professional, legal, safety, or emergency advice. Content reflects conditions at the time of publication and may be out of date, laws, regulations, facility rules, and equipment standards change. Always verify requirements with the governing authority for your jurisdiction, vessel class, and specific situation. goFrigg makes no representations about the completeness or accuracy of this content and is not responsible for outcomes resulting from actions taken based on these articles. In an emergency, contact emergency services immediately, do not rely solely on this content. Trailering, boating, and storage carry inherent risks. Consult qualified professionals before acting. See our Privacy & Terms for full disclaimers.

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