Just got an RV or camper: your first year

RV & camper 7 min read

Appliance break-in and first-use procedures for the refrigerator, water heater, and slide-outs; leveling and stabilization habits to build from the start; sealant inspection timeline before damage develops; first winterization walkthrough; and what to expect at the first warranty service visit.

Show me the detail for:

New to this I know the basics Experienced

Saved on this device only. A goFrigg account keeps the steps you mark done on every device you sign in on.

Get started with goFrigg

Already a customer? Sign in

The steps

Appliance break-in and first-use procedures

Refrigerator (absorption)

Level requirement: RV absorption refrigerators must be level to operate correctly. The absorption cooling unit requires gravity flow of the ammonia solution; running it off-level for extended periods damages the cooling unit permanently. Most manufacturers specify within 3 degrees of level, side to side and front to back. Use a small bubble level on the refrigerator shelf to confirm.
Pre-cooling: Turn the refrigerator on 24 hours before loading it with food, either at home on shore power or with propane, before departure. An absorption fridge takes significantly longer to cool down than a residential unit and never reaches residential temperatures; expect 35 to 42 degrees Fahrenheit, not 34.
Burner cleaning after first season: After the first year, have the propane burner orifice and flue cleaned. Debris and spider nesting in the flue area is the leading cause of propane refrigerator failure after storage.

Water heater first light

Confirm the tank is full before lighting: The water heater element and burner will burn out or crack if fired without water in the tank. Fill the fresh water system completely and run every hot water tap until water flows steadily with no air before lighting the water heater. This is the most common first-use mistake with a new RV.
Anode rod inspection at first year: Most propane water heaters have a magnesium anode rod in the drain plug. This rod sacrificially corrodes to protect the tank. Inspect and replace it at the first winterization if it shows more than 50% consumption; do not let it deplete to the core wire, as tank corrosion begins immediately after.

Slide-out break-in

Extend and retract the slide ten times before the first trip: New slide seals and mechanisms benefit from exercised movement before regular use. Extend fully, check that the seal contacts the RV wall evenly, and retract. Listen for grinding or binding; both indicate a misalignment that should be corrected before loading the slide room with furniture and people.
Seal lubrication: Apply a slide seal conditioner (not silicone spray, which attracts dirt) to the slide rubber seals before the first trip and at every season start. Seals that dry and crack in the first year pass water and cold air into the interior.

Refrigerator (absorption): Must be within 3 degrees of level (side/side and front/back) to prevent permanent cooling unit damage. Pre-cool 24 hrs before loading on shore power or propane. Expect 35-42°F, not residential temperatures. After year one: clean burner orifice and flue (spider nesting is the leading failure cause after storage).
Water heater first light: Tank must be completely full before lighting. Fill fresh water system, run every hot tap until steady flow with no air, then light. Firing with air in the tank burns out the element. Anode rod: inspect at first winterization; replace if >50% consumed; don't let it reach the core wire.
Slide-outs: Extend and retract 10 times before first trip. Listen for grinding or binding; misalignment must be corrected before loading. Apply slide seal conditioner (not silicone spray, which attracts dirt) before first trip and every season start.

Leveling and stabilization: habits to build early

Level side to side first, then front to back: The correct sequence is critical. Level the RV side to side using wheel leveling blocks under the low-side tires, then level front to back using the tongue jack (travel trailers) or the front leveling jacks (motorhomes). Reversing the sequence creates diagonal stress on the frame and makes it harder to achieve level.
Never use leveling jacks as stabilizers: Leveling jacks are designed to level the coach; they are not designed to carry the load of people moving around inside. Once the RV is level, lower the stabilizer jacks (corner jacks) until they contact the ground firmly but do not lift the tires. The tires carry the weight; the stabilizers prevent rocking.
Chock the wheels before lowering any jack: Wheel chocks prevent roll during the leveling process. Place chocks on both sides of at least one tire on each axle before extending any jack. A travel trailer with no chocks and a sloped site can roll during leveling and damage the hitch or jack.
Automatic leveling systems: On motorhomes with automatic leveling, the system handles sequencing but still requires the vehicle to be parked on a surface within its leveling range (typically within 6 to 8 inches of level). Parking on extreme slopes outside the auto-leveling range can cause the system to extend jacks unevenly, leading to frame stress and jack damage.
Slide-outs require level before extending: Always level the RV before extending slide-outs. Extending slides on an off-level coach places uneven load on the slide mechanism and can cause the slide to bind, damage the rack and pinion, or cause the seal to contact unevenly.

Sequence: side to side first (wheel blocks under low-side tires), then front to back (tongue jack or front leveling jacks). Wrong order creates diagonal frame stress and makes level harder to achieve.
Leveling jacks ≠ stabilizer jacks: leveling jacks level the coach; stabilizer jacks prevent rocking. Tires carry the weight; never lift tires with stabilizers.
Chock wheels before lowering any jack: both sides of at least one tire per axle. No chocks + sloped site = roll risk during leveling.
Auto-leveling: parks within 6-8 inches of level only. Outside that range, the system extends jacks unevenly and causes frame stress and jack damage.
Extend slides only after the RV is level. Off-level extension = uneven seal contact, rack-and-pinion damage, binding.

Sealant inspection timeline

Inspect within 90 days of purchase: RV sealants applied at the factory begin drying and shrinking within months. Do a complete sealant inspection within 90 days of purchase and again at the end of the first season. Do not wait for the first annual service, as water intrusion can begin within the first summer.
Roof seams and penetrations: The roof is where most RV water damage originates. Inspect every seam, vent flange, antenna base, air conditioner flange, and skylight perimeter. Lap sealant that has cracked, pulled away from the surface, or become porous should be cleaned and resealed before the next rainfall.
Slide-out sealants: Check the sealant bead around the slide-out opening on the exterior wall. This is a flex point that experiences movement every time the slide operates. By the end of year one, small cracks or voids in this bead are common and require attention before winter.
Window and door frames: Inspect the sealant bead at every window frame, door frame, and exterior access panel. These are common points of entry for water that then travels through the wall cavity and causes delamination months later, far from the original entry point.
Sealant type matters: Use the correct sealant for the substrate. Self-leveling lap sealant is for horizontal roof applications. Dicor or equivalent non-sag sealant is for vertical surfaces. Do not use regular silicone on an RV roof; it does not adhere to most roof membranes and will peel within a season.
Document every repair: Photograph the sealant condition before and after each repair with a date. This documentation is your evidence for any water intrusion warranty claim and your reference for the following year's inspection.

Inspect within 90 days of purchase and again at end of first season. Don't wait for the annual service; water intrusion starts within the first summer.
Roof first: every seam, vent flange, antenna base, AC flange, skylight perimeter. Cracked, pulled, or porous lap sealant = reseal before the next rainfall.
Slide-out seam (exterior wall opening): flex point; small cracks by year one are common. Reseal before winter.
Window and door frames: small entry points; water travels through the wall cavity and shows up as delamination far from the original intrusion point.
Product: self-leveling lap sealant for horizontal/roof surfaces; Dicor or equivalent non-sag for vertical surfaces. Never regular silicone on an RV roof: doesn't adhere to most membranes, peels in one season.
Photograph before and after each repair with date. Evidence for warranty claims; reference for next year's inspection.

First winterization and first season storage

Winterize before the first freeze, not after: The moment outside temperatures drop below 32 degrees Fahrenheit for any sustained period, water remaining in lines, tanks, and fixtures can freeze and crack. In cold-weather regions, winterize in mid-fall before overnight temps become uncertain, not on the last camping trip of the year.
Water heater drain before blowout: Open the water heater drain plug and let it drain fully before running compressed air through the system. Blowing the lines with the water heater full pushes water back through the bypass and into areas you're trying to dry. Drain it first, then reinstall the plug before pressurizing.
Bypass valve on the water heater: Use the water heater bypass valve when winterizing with antifreeze. Without bypassing, the antifreeze pump fills the entire 6 or 10 gallon water heater tank with antifreeze, using many more gallons than needed and requiring a lengthy flush in spring.
Roof inspection before storage: Complete the sealant inspection before putting the RV into storage. Any water that enters during winter storage will freeze, expand, and enlarge the intrusion point. Repair sealant issues in fall, before storage, not in spring after the damage has worsened.
Propane management: Turn off the propane tank valve at the tank, not just at the appliances. Leave the regulator closed. Propane systems that develop small leaks at regulators or fittings during storage create a hazard that isn't discovered until the following season.
Battery maintenance over winter: A 12V battery that sits discharged over winter sulfates and loses capacity permanently. Connect to a smart battery maintainer (not a trickle charger) if stored at home, or remove the battery and store it indoors at 50 to 70 degrees with periodic maintenance charging. Disconnect the battery disconnect switch to prevent phantom loads from draining the battery during storage.

Winterize before first freeze, mid-fall in cold-weather regions. Not on the last camping trip of the year; freeze risk exists at any sustained 32°F period.
Sequence: drain water heater first (open drain plug, drain fully, reinstall plug), then blow lines with compressed air or pump antifreeze. Blowing with the water heater full pushes water back into lines you're trying to clear.
Bypass valve: engage before pumping antifreeze. Without it, antifreeze fills the entire 6-10 gal water heater tank: wastes many gallons and requires a lengthy spring flush.
Roof sealant: complete inspection before storage. Any water entering during winter storage freezes, expands, and enlarges the damage point. Repair in fall, not spring.
Propane: close the tank valve at the tank (not just at appliances). Leave the regulator closed. Small leaks at regulators or fittings develop during storage.
Battery: smart maintainer (not trickle charger) connected if stored at home, or remove and store indoors at 50-70°F. Disconnect battery switch to prevent phantom load drain.

What to expect at the first warranty service visit

Build a list before you go: Start a running list of warranty issues the week you take delivery and add to it throughout the first season. Small issues are easy to forget between trips; if you arrive at the service appointment with a list, every item gets documented. If you arrive without one, you'll remember three items and forget seven.
Dealer warranty work timelines: RV dealers are often backlogged for warranty service. Schedule your first warranty service appointment before the end of the first season, even if your list is short. Warranty claims initiated before expiration are typically honored even if the repair takes place after; get everything on record before coverage lapses.
Common first-year warranty issues: Delamination at wall seams, slide-out adjustment, slide seal fit, appliance ignition failures, water heater pilot issues, leveling jack calibration, awning tension adjustment, and interior trim separation are the most common year-one warranty items across all brands. None of these are unusual; report them without hesitation.
Manufacturer vs dealer coverage: Some warranties are backed by the manufacturer directly; others require the selling dealer to perform all warranty work. If your dealer's service center has a long backlog, ask whether you can use another certified dealer or service center in your area. Not all manufacturers allow this; confirm before scheduling elsewhere.
Extended warranty decision before year one ends: Manufacturer warranties on towables typically run 1 year on the unit; motorhome chassis warranties may run longer. Extended warranty coverage through the dealer or a third-party provider must usually be purchased within the first year and before any claim events. Research options and make a decision before the first anniversary of purchase.

Start a running issue list from delivery week and add to it all season. Arrive at service with a written list; reconstructing from memory at the appointment means forgotten items.
Schedule before end of first season. RV dealer service queues are long; claims initiated before warranty expiration are honored even if repair takes place after. Get everything on record first.
Most common year-one items across all brands: delamination at wall seams, slide-out adjustment, slide seal fit, appliance ignition failures, water heater pilot, leveling jack calibration, awning tension, interior trim separation. Report without hesitation; none are unusual.
Confirm whether you can use another certified dealer or service center if your dealer's queue is long. Not all manufacturers allow it; confirm before scheduling elsewhere.
Extended warranty decision: manufacturer coverage on towables typically 1 yr; motorhome chassis may be 3-5 yr. Third-party extended coverage usually must be purchased within year one and before any claim events.

These articles are provided for general informational purposes only and do not constitute professional, legal, safety, or emergency advice. Content reflects conditions at the time of publication and may be out of date, laws, regulations, facility rules, and equipment standards change. Always verify requirements with the governing authority for your jurisdiction, vessel class, and specific situation. goFrigg makes no representations about the completeness or accuracy of this content and is not responsible for outcomes resulting from actions taken based on these articles. In an emergency, contact emergency services immediately, do not rely solely on this content. Trailering, boating, and storage carry inherent risks. Consult qualified professionals before acting. See our Privacy & Terms for full disclaimers.

Get a little ahead of it

Keep every guide in one place

Save the guides you need and check off the steps as you go. Starting is free, and you can leave whenever.

Get started with goFrigg Keep browsing the guides