Just got an RV or camper: before your first trip

RV & camper 9 min read

Weight ratings and what happens when you exceed them, water system sanitization before first use, propane leak-testing, hitching and leveling correctly, campground electrical and sewer hookup sequence, and generator carbon monoxide safety. Select your experience level for the right depth of detail.

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GVWR, payload, and towing capacity

GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating): The maximum total weight your RV is designed to carry, including the RV itself, all passengers, fuel, freshwater, gear, and food. This number is stamped on the RV's Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard label (usually inside the driver's door jamb or on the A-pillar). Exceeding GVWR overloads the chassis, axles, brakes, and tires. It also voids most manufacturer warranties and changes your insurance liability in an accident.
Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC): The weight you can actually load, GVWR minus the RV's base weight (sometimes called "Unloaded Vehicle Weight" or UVW). This number is almost always smaller than people expect. A typical Class C motorhome with a 14,500 lb GVWR and a 12,200 lb UVW has only 2,300 lbs of actual cargo capacity, that has to cover passengers, fresh water (8.34 lbs/gallon × tank size), food, clothing, tools, and any accessories installed after manufacture.
Towing capacity (motorhomes and truck campers): If your motorhome tows a dinghy or trailer, the combined total must not exceed your vehicle's Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). The tow rating is in the chassis manufacturer's documentation, not the RV maker's, look for the Ford, Ram, or Freightliner chassis spec sheet, not the Winnebago or Airstream brochure.
Hitch weight (towable RVs, fifth wheels and travel trailers): Your tow vehicle's hitch receiver has its own weight rating (typically 3,500 to 20,000 lbs depending on hitch class). The trailer's tongue or king pin weight must not exceed the lower of: your tow vehicle's maximum tow rating OR the hitch receiver's rating. Overloading the hitch alone, even if the tow vehicle's total rating isn't exceeded, can deform the receiver and allow the trailer to separate.
Practical first step: Before your first loaded trip, take the fully loaded RV to a truck scale (CAT Scale locations are searchable online). A full axle-by-axle weigh is the only way to confirm you're within legal limits.

GVWR on Federal label (door jamb/A-pillar), never exceed it fully loaded
CCC = GVWR minus UVW; includes passengers, water (8.34 lbs/gal), food, gear
GCWR governs motorhome + dinghy/trailer combo, use chassis manufacturer's spec, not RV brand
Towable: hitch receiver rating and tow vehicle's max rating, use the lower of the two for tongue/pin weight
Weigh fully loaded at a truck scale (CAT Scale) before first trip, axle-by-axle weights

Water system: sanitizing before first use

Why sanitize first: New RVs and those coming out of storage can have bacteria, mold, or antifreeze residue in the fresh water tank, lines, and water heater. Antifreeze used for winterization is potable (non-toxic) grade, but it still needs to be thoroughly flushed before you use the water for drinking, cooking, or brushing teeth.
The bleach sanitization method: Use 1/4 cup of household bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite) per 15 gallons of tank capacity (follow your RV manual). Mix the bleach with a gallon of water first, pour into the fresh water tank through the exterior fill port, then fill the tank completely with potable water. Turn on the water pump and open every faucet, hot and cold, kitchen, bathroom, outdoor shower if equipped, until you smell bleach at each outlet. Close all faucets and let the solution sit for at least 4 hours (overnight is better).
Flushing the system: After the contact time, drain the tank completely. Refill with fresh water and run all faucets again until the bleach smell is gone. Repeat the fill-and-drain cycle a second time if you still detect bleach. The water heater needs to be drained separately via its drain plug, the sanitization solution should have circulated through it during the soak if you ran the hot side of every faucet.
Flushing antifreeze (post-winterization): If the previous owner or service shop winterized with RV antifreeze (the pink non-toxic kind), fill the tank, run all faucets until water runs clear and tastes clean, drain, and refill. Then do the bleach sanitization described above before relying on the water for drinking.
Water filter: Install an inline water filter on the city water connection before your first hookup at a campground. A simple KDF/carbon filter removes chlorine, sediment, and taste issues, campground water sources vary widely in quality, and some are connected to older plumbing.

Sanitize: 1/4 cup bleach (5.25%) per 15 gallons of tank capacity (follow your RV manual), dissolved in 1 gal water first
Fill tank, run all faucets (hot and cold) until bleach smell detected at each
Soak 4 hours minimum; drain tank completely
Water heater drain plug out during drain; reinstall before refilling
Two fresh-water rinse cycles until no bleach taste/smell
Post-antifreeze: flush until clear and odorless, then sanitize
Install inline filter on city water connection before first campground hookup

Propane system safety check

Two-stage regulator: Your RV's propane system uses a two-stage pressure regulator mounted at the propane compartment. It steps tank pressure (which varies with temperature, up to 200 psi) down to the 11 inches of water column your appliances need. Never adjust or replace the regulator yourself unless you're trained to do so. If the regulator vent is pointing down and you smell gas near the regulator, it may be venting, this is normal operation, but if you smell gas inside the RV, shut off the main tank valve immediately.
Leak test before first use: With the tank valve open and all appliances off, spray every connection, fitting, and hose from the tank through the regulator and along the exterior plumbing lines with leak detector solution or soapy water. Bubbles indicate a leak. Do not use a flame to detect leaks. If you find a leak at a fitting, try tightening a quarter-turn, do not overtighten. If the leak persists, close the tank valve and have the connection repaired before using any propane appliances.
Appliance startup sequence: Light exterior appliances first (outside grill, outdoor kitchen) to ensure the system is flowing, then move to interior appliances. For a gas range: open a burner, hold an igniter spark, then open the valve, do not leave the valve open waiting for ignition more than a few seconds. For the furnace and water heater: these have automatic ignition, if they don't light within two ignition attempts, turn them off, ventilate the area for several minutes, and retry. A continuous unlit gas valve releases propane into the living space.
CO and propane detectors: Your RV should have both a carbon monoxide detector and a propane/LP detector (propane detectors are mounted low on a wall because propane is heavier than air). Test both detectors by pressing the test button before your first trip. Replace CO detectors every 5 years or by the manufacturer's date, and LP gas detectors per the label, regardless of whether they test positive; the sensors degrade over time and will not respond reliably.
Traveling with propane: Many tunnels and some ferry services prohibit propane in use while in transit. Turn off all propane appliances, including the refrigerator (switch to 12V or shore power mode), before entering tunnels. The tank valve itself can remain open, it's the appliances that must be off. Some ferries require the main tank valve to be closed; check the specific carrier's policy.

Open tank valve and leak-test all fittings, lines, and regulator connections with soapy water, no flame
Bubbles at any fitting: tighten 1/4 turn, retest; if persistent, close tank and repair before use
CO detector and LP detector both tested (test button); replace if 5+ years old
Appliance startup: exterior appliances first, then interior; 2 ignition attempts max, ventilate and retry if no light
Fridge to 12V/shore power before tunnels; check ferry policy on tank valve
Regulator vent pointing down; never adjust regulator yourself

Hitching up and leveling at the campsite

Weight distribution hitch (travel trailers over 4,000 lbs GTW): A weight distribution hitch (WDH) transfers some of the tongue weight back to the front axle of your tow vehicle, restoring steering response and headlight aim. If your tow vehicle squats noticeably at the rear when hitched, you need one. Tension the spring bars until the front of the tow vehicle returns to within 1/2 inch of its unloaded ride height. Attach sway control if not using an integrated anti-sway WDH head, a friction sway bar attaches to the trailer A-frame and the hitch.
Coupler test before every trip: After latching the coupler, grab the trailer tongue and try to lift it off the ball. It should not move. Also check that the safety clip or pin is through the coupler latch. Cross safety chains under the tongue in an X with enough slack for sharp turns but no more. Connect the breakaway cable to the tow vehicle's frame (not the hitch).
Leveling at the campsite: Level the trailer side-to-side first using a bubble level on the floor. Use leveling blocks under the low tires. A propane refrigerator requires level operation to protect the cooling unit, running more than 3 degrees off-level for extended periods damages the absorption system, a repair that can cost more than the refrigerator. Once side-to-side level, use the tongue jack (travel trailer) or front jacks (fifth wheel) to level front-to-back.
Stabilizer jacks vs leveling jacks: Stabilizer jacks (the scissors or swing-down jacks at the rear corners) reduce bounce and movement while parked. They are not designed to lift or level the trailer, they are stabilizers. Lower them until they contact the ground with slight firm resistance, then no more than one or two extra cranks. Over-tightening stabilizer jacks lifts the trailer off the tires and can stress the frame.
Unhitching safely: Chock the wheels before unhitching. Lower the tongue jack until the coupler lifts off the ball, do not unhitch on a slope without wheel chocks in place, and always chock the downhill side. Disconnect shore power, water, and sewer last, after you've confirmed the rig is level and stable.

WDH: spring bar tension until front of tow vehicle returns to within 1/2" of unladen ride height
Coupler lift test after latching; safety clip/pin in place; X-crossed safety chains; breakaway to frame
Level side-to-side first (bubble level on floor; blocks under low tires), then front-to-back with tongue/front jacks
Fridge requires within 3 degrees of level, absorption system damage is expensive
Stabilizer jacks: contact + 1 to 2 cranks only, never lift trailer off tires
Chock wheels before unhitching, downhill side first; disconnect utilities last

Campground hookups: electric, water, and sewer

30-amp vs 50-amp service: Most older RVs use a 30-amp connection (TT-30 plug, three prongs). Larger motorhomes and fifth wheels typically use 50-amp (14-50 plug, four prongs). A 50-amp RV has two 120V legs and can run two large appliances simultaneously (e.g., air conditioner + microwave). A 30-amp system cannot. If you plug a 50-amp RV into 30-amp service using an adapter, you can still use your RV, but running the air conditioner and microwave at the same time will trip the breaker.
Shore power connection sequence: Turn the pedestal breaker OFF before connecting your power cord. Plug in at the RV first, then plug into the pedestal (or connect to pedestal first if your cord is a twist-lock). Then flip the pedestal breaker ON. This prevents the live plug from arcing when you connect. Reverse this on disconnect: pedestal breaker OFF, unplug from pedestal, then unplug from RV.
Water pressure regulator: Always use an inline water pressure regulator between the campground spigot and your RV. Campground water pressure is unregulated and can exceed what RV plumbing is built for. Unregulated high pressure can blow fittings, crack the water heater tank, or split plastic lines. A brass regulator that threads onto the spigot is inexpensive and prevents repairs costing hundreds of dollars.
Sewer connection: Connect the black tank (waste) hose first at the dump station end, then secure the other end at the RV sewer outlet. Keep the black tank valve closed until the tank is at least 2/3 full, running a slow trickle through the sewer hose doesn't flush solids and leads to pyramid buildup in the tank. The gray tank (sinks and shower) should also stay closed while camping; open the gray valve last when dumping to flush the hose with cleaner water.
Surge protector: Invest in an EMS (Electrical Management System) before your first trip, not after. Campground pedestals can have reversed polarity, missing ground, or voltage issues that can damage your appliances, charge converter, and HVAC system. A quality EMS monitors and cuts power on faults. A basic surge protector protects against spikes but won't catch low voltage or wiring faults.

Shore power: pedestal breaker OFF before connecting; plug RV first, then pedestal; breaker ON last
Disconnect: pedestal breaker OFF first, then unplug pedestal, then RV
Water: inline pressure regulator on spigot (brass, typically 40 to 50 PSI); campground pressure is unregulated
Sewer: connect hose at dump end first; keep black tank valve closed until 2/3 full; gray tank closed until dump time; open gray last to flush hose
EMS/surge protector, protects against reversed polarity, lost ground, low voltage, essential, not optional
30-to-50A adapter limits you to one large load at a time (single AC leg)

Generator safe use

Carbon monoxide, the primary hazard: Generator exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO), an odorless, colorless gas that kills within minutes at high concentrations. Never operate a generator inside an enclosed space, garage, awning enclosure, or within 20 feet of any window, door, or vent. CO drifts, even outside placement requires attention to wind direction. Your RV should have a CO detector; test it before every trip. If it sounds, evacuate immediately and get fresh air. Do not re-enter to shut off the generator.
Oil level before starting: Most portable generators have a low-oil shutoff sensor, but some do not. Running a generator without oil will seize the engine within minutes, a repair that exceeds the generator's value. Check the oil level with the dipstick every time before starting. Change the oil after the first 20 hours on a new generator, then every 50 to 100 hours or per the manufacturer's schedule.
Fuel management: Do not refuel a running generator. Turn it off and let it cool for several minutes before adding fuel, the carburetor and fuel bowl are hot, and gasoline spilled on hot engine parts will ignite. Store only enough fuel for planned use; gasoline goes stale in 30 days without a stabilizer. Always treat fuel with a stabilizer if you won't use it within a month.
Campground quiet hours and watt load: Most campgrounds have generator hours, typically 8 AM to 8 PM or similar. Respect them. Understand your generator's rated wattage and your RV's load. Running an AC unit (typically 1,200 to 1,800 starting watts), the microwave (1,000 to 1,500 watts), and the converter (to charge batteries) simultaneously can exceed a 3,000-watt generator. The surge at AC startup often trips the generator's circuit breaker, stagger large loads at startup.
Inverter generators (Honda, Yamaha, etc.): Inverter generators produce clean sine wave power safe for sensitive electronics and are significantly quieter than conventional generators. They're more fuel-efficient at partial load and typically produce 1,000 to 3,000 watts. They cost more but are the appropriate choice for RV use if you're buying one for the first time.

20-foot minimum from any window, door, or vent; CO detector functional and tested
Never refuel while running, off + cool before adding fuel
Oil level check every start; change at 20 hr break-in, then per manufacturer schedule
Treat fuel with stabilizer if not used within 30 days
Stagger large loads at startup (AC compressor start surge can trip breaker on small generators)
Observe campground quiet hours; inverter generators for quiet campsites

These articles are provided for general informational purposes only and do not constitute professional, legal, safety, or emergency advice. Content reflects conditions at the time of publication and may be out of date, laws, regulations, facility rules, and equipment standards change. Always verify requirements with the governing authority for your jurisdiction, vessel class, and specific situation. goFrigg makes no representations about the completeness or accuracy of this content and is not responsible for outcomes resulting from actions taken based on these articles. In an emergency, contact emergency services immediately, do not rely solely on this content. Trailering, boating, and storage carry inherent risks. Consult qualified professionals before acting. See our Privacy & Terms for full disclaimers.

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