Seasonal home maintenance calendar

Spring is the most important maintenance window of the year. Winter stresses every exterior surface, and spring rains compound any damage that went unaddressed. Work through these in order: roof and gutters first, then seals and systems, then outdoor startup.

• HVAC filter change and system startup: DIY 30 min Replace the HVAC filter before running the air conditioner for the first time. A clogged filter from the heating season forces the blower motor to work harder and reduces airflow to the point that the evaporator coil can ice over. If the system is several years old, schedule a professional tune-up before the first heat wave; technicians book up fast once temperatures rise. Note the date of the filter change and set a reminder to replace it again in 90 days (pleated) or 30 days (fiberglass).
• Gutter inspection and cleaning: DIY 1-2 hrs Inspect and clean gutters after the last snow and ice have cleared. Winter debris, ice dams, and freeze-thaw cycles can separate gutters from fascia, pull hanger spikes, and crack end caps. While you're on the ladder, check that all downspouts are directing water at least 5 feet away from the foundation. A blocked or detached downspout empties directly at the foundation and is one of the most common causes of basement water intrusion.
• Exterior caulking: DIY 1-2 hrs Walk the perimeter and check the caulk around every window frame, door frame, penetration (dryer vent, gas line, electrical conduit), and where siding meets trim. Winter temperature swings crack and shrink caulk; gaps that were sealed in fall may be open by spring. Use a polyurethane or paintable silicone caulk rated for exterior use. Do not caulk the bottom edge of window frames; that gap is intentional for drainage.
• Window and door seal check: DIY 30 min Inspect the weatherstripping on every exterior door and operable window. Close each door and slide a dollar bill along the frame while it's latched. If you can pull the bill out without resistance, the seal is not making full contact. Replace weatherstripping that has compressed, cracked, or torn. Check the door sweeps at the bottom of exterior doors; a worn sweep lets cold air and pests in at floor level.
• Deck and patio inspection: DIY 45 min Inspect every deck board for soft spots, rot, and raised fasteners. Press a screwdriver into wood near ledger connections, post bases, and anywhere boards meet; soft wood means moisture has gotten in and decay has started. Check ledger board flashing where the deck attaches to the house; this is the single most common failure point on attached decks. If the flashing is absent or rusted, water enters the wall cavity behind it. Check that post bases are not in direct contact with soil or standing in pooled water.
• Irrigation system startup: DIY 45 min Open the irrigation shutoff gradually and walk each zone to verify head coverage and check for cracked lines or winter-damaged heads. Heads that were frozen or run over during winter will spray in the wrong direction or not at all. Adjust heads so no spray is hitting the foundation, walks, or driveways; overspray on hardscape and foundation creates efflorescence and long-term moisture problems. Set the controller timer to your spring schedule and disable any zones that overlap with regular rainfall.

Spring checklist

• HVAC filter: DIY 30 min Replace before first AC run. Set 90-day reminder (pleated) or 30-day (fiberglass). Schedule tune-up if the system is several years old: books up fast before heat season.
• Gutters: DIY 1-2 hrs Clear after last ice. Check hangers and end caps for winter damage. Confirm downspouts extend at least 5 ft from foundation.
• Exterior caulk: DIY 1-2 hrs Check all window/door frames, penetrations, siding-to-trim junctions. Replace cracked or separated caulk with exterior-rated polyurethane or paintable silicone. Do not caulk the bottom window frame edge.
• Weatherstripping: DIY 30 min Dollar-bill test on every exterior door. Replace compressed or cracked seals. Inspect door sweeps.
• Deck: DIY 45 min Probe ledger connections, post bases, and board joints with a screwdriver for soft wood. Verify ledger flashing is intact and not rusted. Confirm post bases are above grade and not in standing water.
• Irrigation: DIY 45 min Open shutoff slowly. Walk each zone. Replace cracked heads and adjust overspray. No spray on foundation, hardscape, or walks. Update controller to spring schedule.

Summer maintenance is lighter; it is mostly about catching problems that start when heat, humidity, and heavy AC use combine. These tasks take a few hours total and prevent expensive repairs in fall or the following year.

• AC filter rotation: DIY 15 min If you are running the air conditioner heavily, the filter loads up faster than it does in shoulder months. Check it at the 45-day mark even if your normal interval is 90 days. A filter that is visibly gray or dark is already restricting airflow. A restricted filter during heavy cooling season can cause the evaporator coil to ice over, which shuts the system down and requires hours to thaw before it will run again.
• Attic temperature check: DIY 30 min On a hot afternoon (90+ degrees outside), measure the temperature in your attic. A well-ventilated attic should be no more than 20 to 30 degrees above the outdoor air temperature. If your attic is significantly hotter (150 degrees is not unusual in poorly ventilated attics), you are likely cooking your shingles from the inside and substantially increasing your cooling load. Signs of inadequate attic ventilation include: ridge vent blocked by insulation from below, soffit vents that are covered or painted over, and insufficient net free area. This is a diagnosis task, not a DIY fix; the result tells you whether to call a roofing contractor or an HVAC contractor.
• Pest exclusion check: DIY 30 min Walk the perimeter looking for new gaps, cracked soffits, or openings around utility penetrations where pests can enter during summer. Ants, wasps, and rodents all ramp up activity in warm months and exploit any new opening. Check the attic gable vents for torn screens, check the dryer vent exterior flap for function, and look for mud dauber or wasp nest starts under eaves and in soffit corners. Deal with pest entries while they are small; a wasp colony in a wall cavity discovered in August is significantly more expensive to remove than a nest started in June.
• Dryer vent inspection: DIY 30 min The dryer vent should be inspected at least once per year, and summer is a convenient time. Disconnect the flexible duct from the back of the dryer and check for lint accumulation. Then go outside and verify the exterior vent flap opens freely when the dryer runs and closes fully when it stops. A stuck or clogged exterior flap backs lint up into the duct. The US Fire Administration cites clogged dryer vents as a leading cause of home fires. If you have a long vent run (over 25 feet), or a run with multiple bends, consider hiring a dryer vent cleaning service every other year.

Summer checklist

• AC filter (mid-season): DIY 15 min Check at 45 days during heavy-use months; a clogged filter under heavy cooling load ices the evaporator coil and shuts the system down.
• Attic temperature: DIY 30 min Measure on a hot afternoon. Compare it with the outdoor temperature; an attic far hotter than outdoors suggests blocked or insufficient ventilation. Check ridge vent clearance and soffit vent coverage before calling a contractor.
• Pest exclusion: DIY 30 min Walk perimeter for new gaps at penetrations, soffits, and gable vents. Check dryer vent exterior flap. Address wasp/mud dauber nest starts at eaves and soffit corners early; waiting until August multiplies removal cost.
• Dryer vent: DIY 30 min Disconnect duct from dryer, check for lint accumulation. Verify exterior flap opens during run and closes fully at rest. Runs over 25 ft or with multiple bends: hire cleaning service every other year.

Fall is the second major maintenance window. The goal is to close out the warm season and prepare every system for cold before the first freeze. Tasks left undone in fall become emergency calls in January.

• Gutter cleaning post-leaf-drop: DIY 1-2 hrs Wait until the trees on and around your property have fully dropped their leaves before cleaning gutters; doing it too early means doing it twice. Once cleared, check that gutters slope toward the downspouts (no standing water after rain), that all hangers are tight, and that downspouts are clear to the outlet. In climates where ice dams form, ensure the gutters are clear before the first freeze; ice forming in a debris-blocked gutter backs up against the fascia and under the shingles.
• Heating system service before first use: Professional 1-2 hrs Schedule furnace or boiler service before you need it: late September through early October, before the rush. A furnace that fails on the first cold night of November is a common call, and HVAC technicians are booked solid during cold snaps. At a minimum, replace the filter before the heating season starts. If the system is several years old, have a technician inspect the heat exchanger for cracks (a cracked heat exchanger allows combustion gases including carbon monoxide into the living space), clean the burners, and verify proper ignition sequence.
• Chimney inspection (full flue inspection for wood-burning): Professional 1-2 hrs If you have a wood-burning fireplace or stove and you plan to use it this winter, schedule a full flue inspection by a CSIA-certified sweep before the season starts. A full flue inspection includes a camera inspection of the entire flue from firebox to cap. Creosote buildup and flue cracks are the two leading causes of chimney fires, and neither is visible from the firebox opening. The Chimney Safety Institute of America recommends annual inspections for any chimney in regular use. Gas fireplaces should have the burner, igniter, and gas connections inspected every few years even without creosote risk.
• Weatherstripping and door sweep check: DIY 20 min Fall is the second weatherstripping inspection of the year. Recheck every exterior door; summer heat causes weatherstripping to compress and take a set, reducing its sealing effectiveness by fall. Pay particular attention to the bottom door sweep on any door with a gap visible when the door is closed. A 1/8-inch gap at the bottom of a door is equivalent to a 3-inch diameter hole in the wall for heat loss.
• Outdoor faucet winterization: DIY 20 min In climates that freeze, outdoor hose bibs must be winterized before the first hard freeze. Disconnect all hoses from outdoor faucets; a hose left connected traps water behind the frost-free valve and defeats the freeze protection built into the faucet. Locate the shutoff valve for each outdoor faucet inside the house, close it, and open the exterior faucet to drain the supply line. For frost-free sillcocks (the most common modern type), disconnecting the hose is usually sufficient, but only if the valve is not stuck open internally. If you are unsure whether your outdoor faucets are frost-free, treat them as if they are not and shut off the interior supply valves.
• Sump pump test: DIY 15 min Test the sump pump in fall before the ground freezes and before spring runoff begins. Pour water into the pit until the float activates. The pump should run and clear the pit in 15 to 30 seconds. Confirm the discharge line is clear to its exit point and is not frozen or blocked. If your home depends on a sump pump for basement dryness, consider a battery backup pump; the most common time for basement flooding is during a storm, which is also when power outages are most likely.

Fall checklist

• Gutters (post-leaf-drop): DIY 1-2 hrs Wait until full leaf drop. Clear, slope-check, and confirm downspouts are open to outlet. In freeze climates: clear before first hard freeze to prevent ice backing under shingles.
• Heating system: Professional 1-2 hrs Schedule service in September/October before the rush. Replace filter. If the system is several years old: inspect heat exchanger for cracks, clean burners, verify ignition sequence. A cracked heat exchanger routes combustion gases into the living space.
• Chimney (wood-burning): Professional 1-2 hrs full flue inspection by a CSIA-certified sweep (camera through full flue) before first use of the season. Annual for any regularly used chimney. Creosote buildup and flue cracks are not visible from the firebox. Gas fireplaces: inspect burner, igniter, and gas connections every few years.
• Weatherstripping: DIY 20 min Recheck all exterior doors; summer heat compresses seals. 1/8-inch gap at a door bottom equals roughly a 3-inch hole in the wall for heat loss.
• Outdoor faucets: DIY 20 min Disconnect all hoses (a connected hose defeats frost-free protection). Close interior shutoff valves. Open exterior faucets to drain supply lines. Treat any faucet of unknown type as non-frost-free and shut the interior supply.
• Sump pump: DIY 15 min Pour water into pit until float activates; pump should clear in 15-30 sec. Confirm discharge line is open to exit. Battery backup is worth adding if the pump is load-bearing for basement dryness.

Winter maintenance is mostly about monitoring rather than physical tasks. The work done in fall should have addressed the major vulnerabilities. Winter tasks protect life-safety systems and catch the problems that cold weather reveals.

• Water heater inspection and anode rod check: DIY 30-45 min Winter is a reasonable time to inspect the water heater because you are likely to notice hot water performance changes during heavy household use. Inspect the pressure relief valve by lifting the test lever; it should release a small amount of water and reseat cleanly. If it drips after the test, it is worn and needs replacement. The anode rod protects the tank from internal corrosion by sacrificially corroding in the tank's place; a tank without a functional anode rod corrodes from the inside. On most tank water heaters, the anode rod is accessed at the top of the unit with a 1-1/16 inch socket. Replace it when most of it is consumed or the core wire is exposed. A new anode rod is a small part cost next to replacing the tank.
• Smoke and CO detector test: DIY 20 min Test every smoke and CO detector in the home. Press and hold the test button until the alarm sounds. A detector that does not alarm at full volume needs a new battery or needs to be replaced entirely. Any smoke detector over 10 years old should be replaced regardless of test result; the sensing chamber degrades with age and becomes slower to respond. CO detectors should be replaced every 5 years, or by the manufacturer's date if that comes sooner. Keep a written log of detector locations and replacement dates; most homeowners discover a detector is dead only when trying to silence a low-battery chirp at 3 AM.
• GFCI outlet test: DIY 20 min GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets are required by code in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, basements, and exterior locations, anywhere water and electricity are in proximity. Test each GFCI outlet by pressing the TEST button (the outlet should lose power) and then pressing RESET to restore it. A GFCI outlet that does not trip on test or will not reset is defective and should be replaced. In older homes, some GFCI outlets may protect downstream outlets on the same circuit; if a non-GFCI outlet in a bathroom or kitchen is not working, trace back to the GFCI outlet it is wired through.
• Interior pipe insulation in unheated spaces: DIY 1-2 hrs Any supply pipe running through an unheated space (garage walls, crawl spaces, exterior wall cavities with inadequate insulation, or cabinets on exterior walls) is at risk of freezing when outdoor temperatures drop significantly below freezing. Pipe insulation (foam tubes with a slit down the side) is inexpensive and can be cut to length and wrapped around exposed pipes in minutes. Pay particular attention to pipes on the north side of the house, pipes in the garage near the exterior wall, and pipes under kitchen or bathroom sinks on exterior walls. On the coldest nights, open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls to allow warm air to reach the pipes.

Winter checklist

• Water heater: DIY 30-45 min Test pressure relief valve (lift lever, should release water and reseat without dripping). Inspect anode rod via 1-1/16" socket at top. Replace if more than 50% consumed or core wire is exposed. A new rod is a small cost next to replacing the tank.
• Smoke/CO detectors: DIY 20 min Full test of every unit. Replace any detector over 10 yrs (smoke) or 5 yrs (CO, or the manufacturer's date if sooner) regardless of test result; sensing elements degrade with age. Log locations and replacement dates.
• GFCI outlets: DIY 20 min Test every GFCI in kitchens, bathrooms, garage, basement, and exterior locations. Press TEST (should trip), press RESET (should restore). Defective outlets do not trip or will not reset. Replace them. In older homes, trace non-GFCI outlet faults back to the GFCI outlet upstream on the same circuit.
• Pipe insulation: DIY 1-2 hrs Foam tube insulation on any supply pipe in unheated spaces: garage walls, crawl spaces, exterior wall cavities. On the coldest nights: open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls.

Some maintenance tasks are not quarterly; they happen every few years or on a fixed schedule tied to the home's age and systems. These are the most commonly skipped items, and they are the ones most likely to result in large unexpected expenses when they finally fail.

• Septic system pump-out (every 3 to 5 years): Professional 2-4 hrs If your home is on a septic system, the tank must be pumped out periodically. The interval depends on tank size and household size; a 1,000-gallon tank serving a 3-person household typically needs pumping every 3 to 5 years (EPA). Have the system inspected at least every 3 years (EPA). A tank that is not pumped on schedule accumulates solids that overflow into the drain field. The EPA puts repair or replacement of a conventional system at $5,000 to $15,000; local quotes vary. Keep a record of the last pump-out date and ask the service company to note the sludge level and any observable concerns in writing. Do not flush wipes (even those labeled flushable), pharmaceuticals, grease, or bleach in large quantities; they disrupt the bacterial digestion process in the tank.
• Sewer scope inspection (older homes, and again periodically): Professional 1-2 hrs Homes built before 1990 commonly have cast iron or clay sewer laterals. Both are vulnerable to root intrusion, joint separation, and in-line collapse over time. A sewer scope is a camera inspection of the line from the cleanout in the house to the municipal connection at the street. Cost varies by region and company, so get local quotes; it is not included in a standard home inspection. Tree roots enter sewer lines through joints and grow until they block flow entirely. A camera inspection identifies root intrusion, belly sections (low spots where solids accumulate), and offset joints before they require emergency excavation. If your home is older and you have never had a sewer scope, schedule one.
• Roof inspection (periodically, more often as it ages, and after major storms): Professional 1-2 hrs A professional roof inspection is not the same as looking at the roof from the ground. A roofer on the roof can press on shingles to test for brittleness, check flashing at every penetration, and identify soft spots in the decking below. Have the roof inspected periodically, more often as it ages, and after any major hail event or storm with sustained wind over 60 mph. Many insurance claims are denied because the damage was not documented promptly. If your area had a significant storm, have the roof inspected before the insurance filing deadline (typically one year in most states, though this varies). Do not wait for an interior leak; by the time water shows on the ceiling, the decking and insulation have often already sustained significant damage.
• Pest inspection (annual in high-risk areas; less often otherwise): Professional 1-2 hrs A professional termite and pest inspection is separate from your regular maintenance walk. Termites cause costly property damage in the US, and most damage occurs before visible signs appear. In regions with high termite pressure (Southeast, Southwest, Pacific Coast), annual inspections are standard. In lower-risk regions, a less frequent schedule is sufficient; ask your pest control company. A licensed pest control company will inspect accessible crawl spaces, foundation framing, and any wood-to-soil contact points. Ask specifically about wood moisture readings and whether there are conducive conditions (wood mulch against the foundation, improper grading, or standing water near the structure) that attract termites independent of the inspection result.

Periodic systems schedule

• Septic pump-out (every 3-5 yrs): Professional 2-4 hrs Interval depends on tank size and household size. Keep written pump-out records with sludge level notes. Skipping pump-outs risks drain field failure: the EPA puts repair or replacement of a conventional system at $5,000 to $15,000 (local quotes vary). No wipes, pharmaceuticals, grease, or large bleach volumes.
• Sewer scope (older homes, repeat periodically): Professional 1-2 hrs Camera inspection from house cleanout to street connection. Get local quotes. Pre-1990 cast iron or clay laterals are vulnerable to root intrusion, joint separation, and belly sections. Schedule if never done on an older home.
• Roof inspection (periodically, more often as it ages; after major storms): Professional 1-2 hrs Professional on-roof inspection: shingle brittleness, all flashing penetrations, decking soft spots. After significant hail or 60+ mph wind: inspect and document before insurance filing deadline (typically 1 year). Do not wait for interior leaks; ceiling staining means the decking is already wet.
• Pest inspection (annual in high-risk regions; less often otherwise): Professional 1-2 hrs Professional inspection of crawl spaces, foundation framing, and wood-to-soil contact. Ask for moisture readings and conducive condition notes. High-risk regions (Southeast, Southwest, Pacific Coast): annual. Lower pressure: a less frequent schedule.